Paint Your Cabinets

By Mark M. Hancock / DFWmark.com

© Mark M. Hancock / DFWmark.com

While busily social distancing, you probably noticed the kitchen cabinets. They’re dull. They’re dated. They aren’t having any fun.

It’s time for a party in the pantry!

Wood cabinets are easily painted and hold modern paint. 

Bright white and light gray are popular this year. Any light color is best for the peripheral cabinets to reflect more light and make a tight space appear roomier. Folks often use a darker color on the island. 

This Do It Yourself (DIY) project costs less than most kitchen projects. A relatively good job costs a little more than $100, or a pro can do it for $3,000 or more. If you choose to DIY, it’s important to follow all three steps: Prepare, Prime and Paint.

Prepare

Remove all doors, drawers and hardware. Separate hardware into boxes or bags for safe keeping.

Clean, degrease and remove dust from surfaces. Grease bleeds through the paint. Dust under the paint looks like sand. Run a vacuum over any areas you sand.

If the cabinets were previously painted, consider stripping the old paint off first. 

Fill any gouges or holes - not hardware holes - with wood putty before painting.

Put sheet plastic over counter surfaces, tape plastic over appliances and tuck some small pieces over cabinet contents. Use high-quality masking tape to avoid stray paint along edges.

(Above) It's recommended - but not required with modern primers - to sand the surface varnish of stained wood surfaces - scratch it up some. If you must correct for a damaged area, sand it a little deeper. Use sandpaper with a 150 to 200 grit. Take the doors outside to sand them. If you choose to sand the cabinet frames, drape plastic sheets around the room openings to contain the dust. Wear a respirator mask and eye protection.

(Right) Remove all doors and drawers from cabinets. Some items can remain to the rear of shelves if you aren't painting the interior. Just cover them with sheet plastic.

(Left) Separate hardware into separate bins or sandwich bags. If hardware is specific to individual places, label the bags with the location on a piece of painters' tape. 

When removing doors and drawer fronts, place a piece of painters' tape near where the door was removed. Write an identifying number on the tape. Place a piece of painters' tape on the door or drawer front with the matching number and location. 

When painting the door, place the tape on the bottom side of an unpainted door. If one side is painted, place the ID tape near the drying door. Until the paint has hardened, tape can pull the paint off. 

Paint the backs of doors first. You can fix those mistakes and few folks will notice the mistakes on the door backs after you paint the fronts. 

(Right) Remove the drawer fronts from the drawers. Sand the surface varnish if desired. You don't want to paint anywhere near the working mechanical portions of the drawers. 

When preparing to prime and paint, you'll want to use inexpensive painters' pyramids like these. They provide the smallest touch to the underside. This approach allows the primer or paint to dry and harden without sticking to plastic or larger risers.

(Left) Mask every area abutting a painted area with high-quality painters' tape (masking tape). Even professional painters ensure they don't overpaint onto other surfaces. Clean lines are vital when the work is done. This is how they happen. 

Use a razor knife and scissors to cut the painters' tape precisely. It's impossible to accurately place a 20-foot long section of tape on the first try. Instead, tape the corner and unroll a little at a time as you work your way across an edge. If it gets off line, there's less to fix. Back up to where it was on line and start again from there. If you must, cut the tape and start again from where you cut the tape. 

Use painters' tape with thin plastic sheeting attached over built-in appliances to protect against drips. 

Use a sponge sander - with or without grooves - to scuff up varnished surfaces as needed. 

(Right) The shelves only need to be masked where the paint might slop over. 

If the interior of the shelves won't be painted, push the contents to the back and cover with plastic sheeting.

If the interior needs paint, remove everything. Then, start from the back and work forward to avoid painted elbows and forearms. 

Cover all fixed appliances with plastic sheeting. Move mobile appliances such as the refrigerator out of the way to avoid paint splashes.

Prime

Modern primers can bond to varnish. It’s still a good idea to lightly sand varnished surfaces to allow primer to get a better grip. However, if you pick between sanding or primer, choose the primer.

Use the best primer available. It covers many mistakes and sets up the paint for success. It should be about as thick as a runny milkshake. 

If you have sawhorses, save your back some pain by painting cabinet doors up high. It makes it easier to see what you're doing and avoids some strain on your knees and back. If you plan to keep the sawhorses clean, drape a plastic sheet over them.

When a brush or roller is not in use, set or wrap it with aluminum foil to keep the paint from setting and hardening on the surface. 

(Right) If you choose not to sand the cabinet frames, high-quality primer bonds to the stained varnish. There was no noticeable difference between the sanded doors and the unsanded frame.

As stated on the new home construction post, the goal is for it to look correct from 6 feet away under normal light. 

(Left) Place painters' tape on every surface that must stay unpainted. Time spent masking the area will be rewarded in the end results. Tape is inside the island box, around the base, under the granite counter, and around the disconnected drawer slide. 

One drawer slide was removed and the other was only disconnected and covered in tape. Since this is a non-visible area, it's best to leave the slide back connected and cover the front with tape to avoid problems remounting the drawer slides.

Have plastic sheeting on the ground as you move around with primer or paint.

Paint

A normal kitchen requires one or two gallons of paint. Buy the best quality enamel paint or acrylic latex-based paint with a satin finish. Acrylic latex-based paint is durable, easy to clean and more forgiving of the painter. You’ll want semi-gloss or satin. 

Push paint to the corners and into shapes with a foam or bristle brush. A 1.5” touch-up pad brush works extremely well. Then roll over the large surfaces in a tight “W” pattern with a foam roller in a small tray. 

This is a great multi-day project while on a budget. Let the paint completely dry and harden to avoid redoing the entire project. Cut masking tape with a razor knife to ensure clean edges.

(Above) Try to select the perfect color the first time. Purchase a sample bottle and paint a poster board or block of wood to test the color. 

Even after you paint it, if it's the wrong color, it's best to catch it quickly while the paint is setting. Then, find the right color before you reattach the doors and drawers. 

(Left) For cabinets, use a foam paintbrush or a 1.5" cover-up brush - like this one - to get paint into the corners and shapes first. Then use a 4" foam roller for the larger surface areas. The brush handles are reusable. Pull off the heads inside a trash bag. An inexpensive and disposable paint tray makes cleanup easy. 

(Right) After painting the cabinet frames, use a razor knife along the edge of the painters' tape to ensure a clean edge. 

Latex paint pulls out of shape and leaves a ragged edge if it isn't cut free. If something goes wrong, strip paint back onto the wood, apply new tape and repaint. Clean lines can be salvaged. 

(Left) Paint is likely to drip inside the cabinet hardware holes. While nobody sees it, paint drippings interfere with the proper function of recessed hinges. This paint must be removed. 

If you have a rotary tool, grab a sanding head out of the kit, attach it to a cordless drill and grind the stray paint out of the hinge hole. 

You can use the same rotary sander on other mistakes, but it's likely to cause more problems than it is worth. Keep this option for problems that need major repairs. 

Expect to miss spots. Once it dries, look carefully at all the surfaces and especially at the corners. If there's some primer or wood showing, use a small foam brush to push paint into those places or cover the outside.

This pass can be done from a sample bottle or from a tiny touch up tray. Always keep a piece of plastic sheeting under any open paint to avoid problems. 

Have a container of treated disposable paint cleaner wipes and roll of paper towels nearby during the project. If a can of paint spills on an uncovered tile floor, fast action can save it. If the paint sets, it becomes a bigger problem. 

The completed project makes your kitchen brighter and appears roomier. Unfortunately, it doesn't help with social distancing from the refrigerator. 

I've Got Your Six!

While you're here...

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