Monday, March 30, 2020

Construction 101 – Pre-pour

A concrete truck mixes its load as another truck delivers concrete during a foundation pour 
at Trinity Falls in McKinney on Nov. 18, 2019. (Mark M. Hancock / ©
By Mark M. Hancock /

This post is part of the New Build Construction 101 series, which includes: Pre-pour (this post), Mechanical, Punch List, plus a bonus Pre-Closing Walkthrough for new homes.

If you're interested in a new-built house, I'd strongly suggest these two posts too: Want to Buy a New-Built House?New-Build Home Basics

The Foundation
We’ll literally start this series at the foundation. Foundation technology has improved dramatically since the 1980s. From the 1970s to now, the science behind foundation and energy compliance has improved dramatically. All other aspects of home construction have remained relatively constant through the last half-century.
James Wrigg, project manager with Perry Homes, stands 
on a foundation pad at Trinity Falls in McKinney. 
(Mark M. Hancock / ©
James Wrigg is a project manager with Perry Homes. Britton Homes is the luxury brand of Perry Homes. He oversees construction at Trinity Falls in McKinney where a 60’ lot with a greenbelt view retails for about $450,000 to $550,000 at the start of 2020. This series of posts is based on the Construction 101 class he teaches to real estate professionals.
Perry Homes does phase building. This means the homes are built and inspected in three distinct construction phases: foundation, mechanical (framing, electrical, HVAC, etc.) and finish (complete with drywall, flooring, lighting, appliances, etc.).
There’s always a project manager on site during the concrete pour because nobody wants a foundation failure. It must be correct, or it will be ripped up and done again at the builder’s expense.
The word “cement” is often used interchangeably with “concrete.” For accuracy, concrete is the completed formula or product. It contains an aggregate (such as gravel, rocks and sand), water and cement, which has a base of lime or other binder.
Slab-on-grade foundation
Many tract housing communities in North Texas have slab-on-grade foundations. These are also known as floating foundations. This process involves digging a mold into the soil, preparing the mold and essential infrastructure then pouring concrete into the mold for maximum efficiency of the concrete.
A foundation mold complete with tendons awaits a 
concrete pour. PVC plastic sheets trap moisture in the pad. 
(Mark M. Hancock / ©
Developers have conditioned and built up the soil to make it as stable as possible. It’s the most important step due to the expansive clay soil of North Texas. These soils will expand and contract depending on the amount of water in the soil.
In North Texas, untouched soil is volatile. Builders want to trap moisture in the pad before the pour. Once the soil is completely swollen with water, a mold for the concrete beams is dug. PVC (Polyvinyl chloride) synthetic plastic is layered over the molded pad to keep soil swollen and avoid movement. The plastic is likely to outlive the house itself.
Once the house is built, it sits on the slab, which has a raft or grid of beams below it. As the soil dries in the summer, it pulls away from the beams. In the wetter months, the soil fills toward the beams but has already reached its maximum swell before the beams were poured. This safeguards the beams from being crushed by the expansive soil during wetter months.
Technical system
Post tension tendons are comprised of a plastic sheath, a
steel cable and grease. An anchor is nailed to the inside of 
the slab mold to allow tension to be applied to the cable later. 
(Mark M. Hancock / ©
Post-tension slab technology was developed in the 1930s and is the main system now. It’s commonly used in areas with expansive soil or poor load-bearing soil. A post-tension slab spreads the weight of the structure over a wider area by using the slab itself. This weight distribution creates a smaller and less expensive foundation.
Post tension means tension is applied to steel cables in the foundation after (post) the concrete pour. A “tendon” is a plastic tube or sheath with a steel cable and grease inside. These are laid out in a specific pattern throughout the foundation.
The plastic sheath protects the metal from corrosive concrete and allows metal to be pulled while the grease lubricates the process and assists with rust and protection within the plastic tube. Anchors at each end of the cable hold it in place.
A boom concrete pump with an articulated robotic arm delivers
liquid concrete precisely during a pour in McKinney. A 3,600 
square foot slab requires about 110 yards of concrete. 
(Mark M. Hancock / ©
A hydraulic tool applies 33,000 pounds of force per cable stretch. The allowance of exposed cable is 1.5 inches at each end. It’s vital the exposed cable is later protected from the elements to avoid corrosion and possible tension failure.
Builders must get everything right before the pour
Builders put minimal plumbing in the foundation. Ideally, only one line runs under the slab. All other lines are in the walls.
Repairs and renovations are inevitable. If repairs are encased in concrete, the costs explode. Often, builders feed metal pipes and electrical lines through PVC conduits (plastic tubes) to protect them from the corrosive cement and make future repairs simpler.
The drains and such are set by engineers before the mold was made. Drains, which are made from PVC, should outlive the house.
Metal post straps and hurricane clips ensure
structural integrity up to 90 MPH wind speeds.
(Mark M. Hancock / ©
Metal post straps provide an anchor to tie onto the frame. The metal post straps are placed before the pour. Homes are built for 90 MPH wind speeds in DFW area with metal post straps that go down to the foundation.
A normal foundation pour takes about an hour to 90 minutes. However, the pour could take up to six hours depending on plan and size.
It takes about 110 yards of concrete to pour a 3,600 square foot slab. A yard of concrete costs about $103. Therefore, the concrete cost for a 3,600 sq. ft. slab would be about $11,330. The completed foundation costs about $30,000 to $40,000.
The foundation is one object, but it is made of both the beams and a slab. The beams are laid out in a grid pattern to support the slab. The slab is the flat, 4-inch top of the foundation. The slab has a minimum of 4 inches of concrete everywhere.
While the builder only needs to maintain 4” of slab, the remainder is for the support structure. The beams are each 10” wide and 30” deep. The grid of beams makes the foundation affordable and strong.
Builders don’t want the cables to weave. They need to be separated from each other in a continuous pattern. If they weave, they will put unwanted stress on the other tendons, and something will eventually break.
The 10-inch gap between the plastic-covered pad and the frame 
mold will become a 30-inch high concrete beam. The concrete 
slab will be 4 inches high atop of the beams and plastic.  
(Mark M. Hancock / ©
Sheets of PVC plastic covers the soil. This method started in the 1990s. The plastic functions to keep the soil swollen with water until the foundation is poured and acts as a vapor barrier from the soil to the curing foundation.
Once poured, concrete cures for the rest of its life. The plastic keeps concrete from sucking water from below and causing mold under the flooring.
The grid of beams supports the slab as summer soil pulls away from the foundation. The foundation then rests on the beams with minimal flexing until moisture returns to the expansive soil.
The foundation benefits from the density of concrete compaction with the tensile strength of steel.
Expect corners to break off. It’s a cosmetic issue rather than structural.
When water is added to cement, a molecular change begins the cure process. The water initially fills the gaps between the cement molecules, which has an expansive reaction. As concrete cures, water leaves the capillaries, which can result in concrete being pulled in multiple directions. This evacuation leads to shrinkage cracks.
Workers spread liquid concrete quickly because cement 
begins a chemical reaction once it contacts water. 
As part of the cure process, cracks in the concrete are 
expected. Those cracks close when 3,000 PSI of pressure 
is applied to the post tension cables.
(Mark M. Hancock / ©
From a homeowner’s perspective, the chemical nature of concrete necessitates cracks. Builders need enough water for the concrete to be workable and fully activated but not too much water that it weakens the chemical bonds. However that window of enough versus too much water is measured in many gallons rather than a few cups.
The owners will freak after the pour because there will be huge cracks in the concrete. However, the “shrinkage cracks” will heal when stressed by the post tension process. Cracks can’t be open afterward.
There are only two types of concrete:  cracked concrete and soon-to-be-cracked concrete. Assess which concrete is cracked and how seriously before reacting. A crack on the sidewalk is easily filled with silicone caulk, a hairline crack in the garage isn’t an issue. However, if a crack appears in the foundation that is 1/8th of an inch or more, it needs to be seen by engineers. A crack that is a nickel’s width is a problem.
If you see a crack from the ground up – it’s a problem. If there is major erosion of soil under the house, it is a big problem. Old foundations were flat and about 12” thick with no beams below the slab. If you can see the bottoms of those foundations, it’s a major problem.
Untreated redwood separates concrete sections. Driveways and
sidewalks use traditional steel rebar to reinforce the concrete.
(Mark M. Hancock / ©
Untreated redwood separates the concrete sections. The driveway is 4” thick. Near the street, it is 6” deep.
Builders shoot for a slab that is as flat as possible rather than trying to build a drain angle. Tile wants a perfectly flat surface, but it’s unreasonable to expect a perfectly flat surface. Instead, a six-foot span should be within 1” of elevation change.
There are hundreds of gallons of water in a foundation. Rain on the foundation concrete is just cosmetic because the foundation will be protected by the structure. But the driveway needs to be poured on a dry day. If too much rain falls on the driveway concrete, spalling can occur.
Spalling is a condition where the concrete surface peels or flakes off. It’s caused when too much water is introduced during the curing process.
Once the concrete pour starts, it must keep pouring. The maximum allowable time between trucks is 45 minutes. Anything longer can create a cold joint. A cold joint is where new concrete is poured on cured concrete. Cold joints are failures and must be torn out and redone.
Hot weather is the biggest problem because it makes the concrete settle and cure faster. Foundation workers will effectively disturb and mix the poured concrete to keep it from curing until the next truck starts its pour. This ensures a homogeneous foundation.
Once poured, concrete cures at the following rates:
4 hours – can walk on it.
12 hours – can drive a nail into it.
45 days – can handle 2,000 PSI of tension (the Perry standard is 3,000 PSI).
For many decades, foundations consisted of steel rebar and
about 12 inches of concrete on unprepared soil. Post 
tension foundation techniques were developed in the 1930s. 
However, the steel available at the time wasn't up to the task.
Modern post tension foundations became the industry 
standard in areas with expansive soil or poor load-bearing 
soil during the 1990s. (Mark M. Hancock / ©
Cylinder tests involve leaving concrete in a cylinder to cure on site. These are broken at different points to test the strength of the concrete.
A hairline crack is cosmetic. The post tension cable system ensures it won’t get wider.
If concrete sweats, it pulls moisture from below. It remains warm when the air above it is cool. When cool air contacts a warm surface in the presence of humidity, it creates condensation. The condensation creates the right environment for mold.
The post-tension pockets should be covered and maintained. Corroded cables can snap and severely damage foundations.
If the tendon cap falls off, it should be covered and sealed with hydraulic cement, which is a kind of grout. It’s suitable to repair masonry surfaces both above and below grade.

If you’re ready to make the move to a new-built house, you have the right to have your best interests represented by a licensed REALTOR. The builder’s sales agent represents the builder – not you. The builder planned to pay a REALTOR fee. This cost is built into the purchase price. Don’t PAY for services that you don’t get! Contact a qualified REALTOR before you sign anything at the builder’s office. Otherwise, you possibly waive your right to no-cost representation.

DFWmark is certified as a New Home Sales Agent, Green Home Sales Agent in addition to having the Military Relocation Professional (MRP) and Graduate, REALTOR Institute (GRI) designations. I can ease the strain of finding your new-built home with my proprietary research information as well as help you liquidate your current house.

If you plan to purchase a new-construction home, please read these other important posts:
Want to Buy a New-Built House?
New-Build Home Basics

Please watch for additional Construction 101 posts: MechanicalPunch List and Final Walkthrough.

I’ve Got Your Six!

Tuesday, March 24, 2020

Shelter In Place Order

It’s a serious time for all of us. We don’t know what the future will hold. However, one thing is certain: 

I’ve Got Your Six!

I’m here to support and defend you. My work and humanitarian efforts will continue.

Dallas, Collin and Denton counties have issued variations of Shelter In Place or Work Safe orders. Individual cities - including Frisco - have additional orders. 

Real estate services are Essential Services Necessary to Maintain Essential Operations of Residences or Other Essential Businesses according to the National Cybersecurity and Infrastructure Agency (CISA) Memorandum of Essential Critical Infrastructure document.

Call, text, email or PM me when you need my help for anything. I’m here for you. I have new tires and a tank of gas. I can help in person in Collin, Southeast Denton or Northern Dallas counties. I'll take precautions, and I'm accustomed to working in challenging environments. 

From defending our country to covering major natural disasters, you've always trusted and counted on me. Now is no different. As always, I've Got Your Six!

Mark M. Hancock

To learn more about CISA designations, please visit:

Saturday, March 14, 2020

Put Spring Into Your Home!

© Mark M. Hancock /

Wear eye protection and work gloves if possibly needed.
 Test smoke alarms and replace batteries.
 Change air filters including those in the kitchen range hood. Clean air vents.
 Check the charge on the kitchen fire extinguisher. Recharge or replace if needed.
 Move the laundry dryer and clean the vent. Also move the washer and clean under both the washer and dryer units.
 After a winter of use, have the chimney flue cleaned and inspected by a professional chimney sweep.
 Turn in all expired or needless medicines. Many chain pharmacies have permanent take back locations. Search for “drug disposal” on Google Maps for locations to confirm.

 Move from room to room with a household toolbox and tighten all loose screws and bolts.
 Spray canned water-displacement lubricants on creaking door hinges, locks, etc.

 Clean out the pantry and toss anything that has expired.
 Remove debris and clean sliding glass door tracks.
 Dust ceiling fan blades and change rotation direction. The breeze should push down from the fan in the summer and up in the winter (this pushes warm air down the walls).
 Wipe down baseboards.
 Wipe off window blinds. Use wood cleaner and a sponge. Wrap cleaning cloths (or tiny soft socks) around kitchen tongs and tie off with rubber bands to speed the work along.
 Use a lint roller on lampshades or anything else that can’t go into the washer.
 Caulk and paint as needed if a newer house has settled slightly over the winter.
 Wash or replace animal beds.
 Install new shower curtain or liners. Clean shower heads.
 Steam clean mirrors, countertops, sinks and tubs.
 Steam clean toys.
 Steam clean floors. Polish hardwood floors.
 Wash or dry-clean drapes. After a winter of candles, fireplaces and whatnot, they trapped smoke and smells.

 Donate or throw away old clothes and shoes.
 Pack up and store winter clothes. Wash clothes first and consider a vacuum-system to save storage space. Dust and wipe closet shelves while empty.
 Wash and hang spring clothes.


 Examine roof shingles for any missing or damaged over the winter. Replace as needed.
 Clean out gutters – especially if live oak trees are nearby. If the downspout is blocked, use a household drum auger to clear the path and then follow with a sprayer hose.
 Check for cracks and gaps in the caulk around windows.
 Check seals around windows and doors.
 Check foundation for cracks and exposed tension ends.
 Check the exterior paint for any exposed wood. Paint wherever the wood is exposed before the rains start.
 Wash exterior windows. For high windows, look for an outdoor spray cleaner bottle that attaches to a garden hose.
 Remove flying insect nests* (wasps, dirt dobbers) before they settle in for the summer. Use wasp and hornet killer with at least an 18’ spray. Consider the foaming version.
However, call a bee keeper for honey bee nests. A professional can easily move them to a safe location.

 Weed and fertilize the lawn. Use a spreader or liquid.
 Add grass seeds.
 Check firewood for pests. Ensure firewood is at least 2 feet from the home and 18 inches off the ground.
 Check the sprinkler system and replace broken heads.
 Sharpen lawnmower blades and other tools (shovel, chainsaw, hedge clippers, etc.).
 Check all lawn equipment batteries. Do a complete drain and recharge. Replace those that won’t hold a proper charge.
 Check garden hoses for dry rot. If damaged, spring for a top-of-the-line hose. Save money in the long run by having quality hoses that last multiple years rather than one season.
 Enclose and spread colored mulch over muddy areas.

 Clean the grill.
 Power wash outdoor furniture.
 Repair or replace any broken boards on decks.
 Level any dislodged tiles or flagstones.
 Inspect concrete for cracks. Fill cracks with crack filler or silicone caulk.
 Power wash and seal concrete.

 Inspect the outside unit for weather or pest damage.
 Turn off power to the unit and remove leaves and debris from inside the unit. Then, turn power back on and test.
 Trim back any foliage that has or will grow near the unit.
 Gently rinse the A/C coil fins with water to remove dirt.
 If available, use a straightener on the coil fins.

I’ve Got Your Six!

Mark M. Hancock

#DFWmark #community #DIY #tips #HoneyDoList #repair #lawn #AirConditioner #patio #organize #clean

Would you like to get the monthly Information of Value directly to your inbox? Please email your name and phone number to Please title the email IOV or Information of Value. Thanks!

Thursday, March 12, 2020

Veteran Housing and Military Relocation

If you're a military veteran, a surviving spouse or otherwise entitled to Department of Veterans Affairs (VA) benefits, please use the links below to claim your hard-earned benefits. Even if you aren't in the Dallas/Fort Worth Metroplex, I'm happy to help you and honor your service and sacrifices.

Military Benefit Links
VA Benefit Links
Housing and Benefits-related Acronyms

Military Benefit Links

Automated Housing Referral – helps service members locate available housing.
Rent-or-Buy Calculator at – - presents a graph that estimates the cost-benefit times required to sell or lease properties.
Median single-family home prices in U.S. markets - – NAR Research publishes annually.
Military Pay
Supplemental Income for Wartime
Cost-of-living Adjustment (COLA) for Continental U.S. (CONUS) stations
Basic Allowance for Housing (BAH) rates –
Department of Defense (DOD) Customer Moving Portal - Permanent Change of Station (PCS) moving information
DOD Family Readiness System (FRS) - support for military families through various programs, services, agencies and contacts.
Weight Estimator for Household

• Kid Connect – – military kids network for kids to connect with same-age kids on other bases.
• Exceptional Family Members – - support and resources for families with special needs.
• Blue Star Families – – supports military families.
• Department of Defense –

VA Benefit Links
Certificate of Eligibility (COE) - VA Form 26-1880
VA – this is the fastest way to verify VA benefit eligibility and determine entitlement amounts.
VA Home Loan Prequalification Worksheet - interactive form.
More VA - includes online chat options.
VA Loan - displays the maximum amount that can borrowed with $0 down payment. Buyers can borrow more with 25% of additional amount over the limit.
Dream Makers Grants for First-Time Home - Pentagon Federal Credit Union Foundation offer two-to-one matching grants up to $5,000 for down payments and closing costs. Buyer is not required to be a PenFed member and can apply from any financial institution.
Texas Veterans Land - provides land purchase and improvement loans for Texas Veterans and select others.

• Lost or destroyed DD-214 – -, request a GSA Form SF-180 from the National Personnel Records Center (NPRC). It substitutes for the actual discharge papers.
• VA approved condominium list – - search the name of the condominium association (not management company) or city, state, county to see if the status is “Accepted Without Conditions.”
Adaptive Housing - SAH/SHA Housing Adaptation Grants.
National Resource – support for the housing needs of wounded warriors.
Lenders Handbook – VA Pamphlet 26-7 –

Mark M. Hancock /
I’m an OPFOR Infantry veteran 
from the Army’s National Training 
Center. I understand your sacrifices. 
I understand your code of honor. 
Most importantly, I’ve Got Your Six!
Housing and Benefits-related Acronyms

AAFES – Army and Air Force Exchange Service
ACSIM – Assistant Chief of Staff for Installation Management
AFC – Army Family Covenant
AFSA – Air Force Service Agency
AHRN – Automated Housing Referral Network
AIP – Assignment Incentive Pay
BAH – Basic Allowance for Housing
BAS – Basic Allowance for Subsistence
BDU – Battle Dress Uniform
BEQ– Bachelor Enlisted Quarters
BX – Base Exchange (Air Force)
CAC – Common Access Card
CDC – Child Development Center
CO – Commanding Officer
COE – Certificate of Eligibility (VA finance benefits)
COLA – Cost-of-Living Adjustment
CONUS – Continental United States
DECA – Defense Commissary Agency
DEERS – Defense Enrollment Eligibility Reporting System
DITY – Do-It-Yourself Move
DLA – Dislocation Allowance
DD-214 – Certificate of Release or Discharge from Active Duty
DOD – Department of Defense
DS – Defense Personal Property System
ETS – Expiration of Term of Service
FRG – Family Readiness Group
HDP – Hardship Duty Pay
HDIP – Hazardous Duty Incentive Pay
HFP – Hostile Fire Pay
HHG – Household Goods
HQ – Headquartyers
IDP – Imminent Danger Pay
LES – Leave and Earnings Statement
MALT – Monthly Allowance in Lieu of Transportation
MCX – Marine Corps Exchange
MFH – Military Family Housing
MHPI – Military Housing Private Initiative
MOB – Mobilization
MPR – Minimum Property Requirements
MWR – Morale, Welfare, Recreation
NCO – Non-Commissioned Officer
NOV – Notice of Value
NPRC – National Personnel Records Center
OCONUS – Outside the Continental Unitied States (includes Alaska and Hawaii)
OPTEMPO – Operational Tempo or pace of deployment
OTH – Other Than Honorable Discharge
PAO – Public Affairs Office
PBP&E – Professional Books, Papers, and Equipment
PCS – Permanent Change of Station
POA – Power of Attorney
POV – Privately Owned Vehicle
PPM – Personally Procured Move
PPO – Personal Property Office
PX – Post Exchange (Army)
RAP – Relocation Assistance Program
ROTC – Reserve Officer Training Corps
SCRA – Servicemembers Civil Relief Act
S&I – Special and Incentive Pay
TDY – Temporary Duty
TLE – Temporary Living Expenses
TMO – Traffic Management Office
             Transportation Management Office
TO – Transportation Office
Tricare – Military health insurance provider
VA – U.S. Department of Veterans Affairs

Tuesday, March 10, 2020

New-Build Home Basics

Mark M. Hancock / ©
A new home is framed while under construction at
Trinity Falls in McKinney.
There are three basic categories of new-built homes plus custom homes.

1) From the dirt. The buyer gets to select everything including premium lots - at premium prices. These homes take the longest to build for major builders. The normal range is from three months for mass-produced, smaller homes to a year or more for luxury homes.
Premium lots are often larger, located on a corner (fewer shared boundaries), or have better views of water, woodlands or city views. The lot premium may eventually translate into a faster sale rather than more money at sale. However, the homeowner should enjoy the benefits of the premium lot during their residency. The builder pays a premium to the developer for those lots but may also apply a markup.
Buyers will need to anticipate a 10 percent total down payment plus 20 percent down for any upgrades throughout the process.

2) Structurally completed. This house is already a shell on a plot of land. The buyer doesn’t choose the home style or lot. The buyer may get to choose all the finishes and packages. Builders will include lighting, window and/or appliance upgrades to get buyers off the fence. It will take three months or more before it's move-in ready.

3) Inventory homes. This is a completed, move-in-ready home. It typically has some upgrades included to motivate buyers. The builder must pay the bank to keep them in inventory. Consequently, the builders want to move these homes fast and will offer additional incentives (appliance packages, etc.).
While most inventory and near-completion homes won't be in the MLS, some are. You can search for homes built in the current year or the previous year. Often, these same builders will have additional properties nearby in all phases of completion.

Builders add a markup to each upgrade. This creates a cost buffer for many builders. Consequently, they will encourage buyers to get lots of upgrades. When you’re considering upgrades, ask your Realtor to research after-market prices on these same upgrades.
Items such as lighting fixtures are relatively simple to change. Have the builder complete the electrical wiring but go with the base lighting option and upgrade later to save a little money. It’s important to remember that these upgrades are going into your mortgage and will have compounded interest until the entire home is paid off.
That said, real wood floors - often called “hand-scraped” - are almost always a good investment. The high-quality wood floors available from builders require time and successive layers of work. It’s best if this is done from the beginning. Attempting to add these floors after the home is built requires the removal and reset of all baseboards, re-leveling the floors, as well as sawing the bottoms off all affected doors. Few flooring companies will do this level of service when the home has residents and will charge hefty fees to do it.

Custom Homes
Custom homes are exactly what you want with no compromises. However, they are extremely expensive and require detailed decisions on literally every tiny part of the structure. Depending on the builder, they can also be slow to build because there is no automation for a unique structure on a unique piece of land.
The landowner must hire architects, engineers and specialists for each part of the construction. Nothing can move forward until the prerequisite step is completed. Additionally, labor and material costs can be volatile depending on the season and other market forces.
If you have the vision, time and finances to create a one-of-a-kind dream home, do it! However, understand what you’ll face before you start.

Model Homes
There may be some model homes mixed in with the inventory homes. If so, they will have a little wear and tear, but they will have tons of upgrades. Sometimes these upgrades are one-of-a-kind “test” features. They can be a great bargain if you appreciate the upgrades. For comparables, treat them more like preowned homes rather than new-built homes - although the builder will want to treat this heavily trafficked home as "new."

Protect Yourself
You need to read Want to Buy a New-Built House?. It lets you know how to leverage our brokerage to get a better deal and this major issue of caution: do NOT register at the builder without your agent present. Otherwise, you’ll probably lose your right to a no-cost Realtor, who will protect your best interests. While builders’ agents are pleasant and helpful to everyone, they are obliged to act in the best interest of the builder. Don't pay for services you don't get. You need someone to protect you.

I’ve Got Your Six!

Welcome to the DFWmark Blog!

Welcome to the DFWmark Blog! This is a collection of content by Mark M. Hancock, a REALTOR with Keller Williams North County in Celina...